Month by month

Kafue in July

In July the door to the Busanga Plains finally swings open. The floodwater retreats, the tracks of the far north-west firm up around the start of the month, and on 15 July Busanga Plains Camp takes its first guests of the year.

If you only want the answer

July is the first month the whole of Kafue works: rivers, woodland and, from early in the month, the plains. At 12.4°C average lows it is also the coldest month of the year, so this is a down-jacket safari.

Same weather as June, different park

The climate numbers barely move from June: no recorded rain, days of 25.2°C, nights bottoming out at 12.4°C, the year's coldest. What changes is access, and access is everything here. Realistic travel onto Busanga begins in early July, which makes this the month Kafue stops being half a park.

The plains come online

Busanga Plains Camp opens on 15 July and runs to 31 October, the tightest season of the six camps up there. Around it, Shumba, Busanga Bush Camp, Chisa, Ntemwa and Kasonso are all now receiving guests, and the first game drives of the season cross a floodplain still streaked with water and thick with red lechwe.

Count the beds and the booking maths writes itself: Shumba has 6 suites, Busanga Bush Camp and Busanga Plains Camp 4 tents each, Chisa 4 of its woven nests, Ntemwa 5 chalets. The entire plains system sleeps only a few dozen people at a time, so July beds are claimed months in advance, and the school-holiday weeks go first.

What early-season Busanga looks like

Early July is the wettest face of the dry plains: channels still full, sitatunga possible at dawn in the papyrus, wattled cranes in numbers, and the lion prides beginning to hunt the drying margins. The near-daily lion viewing of the peak months is building rather than guaranteed, which is the honest trade for having the place at its greenest and quietest.

Dress for the dawn, not the afternoon. A 06:00 start on an open vehicle at these temperatures wants everything you own; by lunch you are back to shirt sleeves.